Watering
The best way to determine whether your tree needs water is to stick your finger approximately 2-3 inches into the soil, directly in the root ball and close to the trunk. If the soil is wet or moist, DO NOT water the tree. Once the dirt in the root ball becomes dry to the touch, the tree needs watering. It is especially important to monitor the moisture levels around new trees when the temperature is particularly warm. If you are unsure about whether to give your tree more water, check the forecast high temperature for the day. If it calls for hot weather, then go ahead and water the tree. If cooler, it's best to hold off on watering.
The best method for watering your tree is to place the end of a hose at ground level, near the base of the trunk. Turn the water to a slow trickle, and run for 15-20 minutes. Duration of watering depends on the size of the tree and the moisture levels in the soil. Simply put, larger trees and dryer conditions require increased watering times. Water your tree using this method twice a week - three times, if the temperature is 25°C or above.* If you do not have a long enough hose, puncture a few small holes in the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket, fill with water, and place close to the trunk of the tree. A watering bag designed to slowly release water, positioned around the trunk of the tree, is another alternative.
* A tree which has been under-watered is easier to save than a tree which has been overwatered *
The best method for watering your tree is to place the end of a hose at ground level, near the base of the trunk. Turn the water to a slow trickle, and run for 15-20 minutes. Duration of watering depends on the size of the tree and the moisture levels in the soil. Simply put, larger trees and dryer conditions require increased watering times. Water your tree using this method twice a week - three times, if the temperature is 25°C or above.* If you do not have a long enough hose, puncture a few small holes in the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket, fill with water, and place close to the trunk of the tree. A watering bag designed to slowly release water, positioned around the trunk of the tree, is another alternative.
* A tree which has been under-watered is easier to save than a tree which has been overwatered *
Watering with an Irrigation System
Unlike grass, which can tolerate extensive watering, trees do best in soil that is moist, but not saturated. Saturated soil creates favourable conditions for pathogen growth, and can cause the roots of the tree to rot and die.
The best type of irrigation system for trees is drip line irrigation. This type of irrigation supplies the tree with a slow and steady amount of water directly to the roots, while minimizing water consumption. If your irrigation system uses exclusively spray heads, it is likely that your tree is being overwatered. Trees situated in close proximity to spray heads are the most at risk for overwatering. It is crucial to closely monitor moisture levels in your garden beds and adjust irrigation zones to supply an appropriate volume of water, as required.
In new landscapes, irrigation systems are often set to run more frequently, and for longer periods, in order to allow sod to establish. Much of the excess water from the sodded areas will pool in the garden beds. For other plant life to thrive, it is critical that system frequency be reduced once sod is established. Here in Calgary, we often experience a very rainy spring season. There is no need to run irrigation during times of heavy rainfall, or for a week or two after a stretch of rainy days comes to an end.
The best type of irrigation system for trees is drip line irrigation. This type of irrigation supplies the tree with a slow and steady amount of water directly to the roots, while minimizing water consumption. If your irrigation system uses exclusively spray heads, it is likely that your tree is being overwatered. Trees situated in close proximity to spray heads are the most at risk for overwatering. It is crucial to closely monitor moisture levels in your garden beds and adjust irrigation zones to supply an appropriate volume of water, as required.
In new landscapes, irrigation systems are often set to run more frequently, and for longer periods, in order to allow sod to establish. Much of the excess water from the sodded areas will pool in the garden beds. For other plant life to thrive, it is critical that system frequency be reduced once sod is established. Here in Calgary, we often experience a very rainy spring season. There is no need to run irrigation during times of heavy rainfall, or for a week or two after a stretch of rainy days comes to an end.
Fertilizing
What do the numbers mean?
The numbers on fertilizer packaging provide a percentage breakdown of nutrients contained in the mix.
The numbers always follow this sequence:
N-P-K
Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium
Nitrogen: Encourages leaf development.
Phosphorus: Promotes root growth.
Potassium: Helps fight off disease, promotes root growth, and supports flower and fruit growth.
For newly planted trees, a fertilizer with a phosphorus content is best, to encourage root growth. It is impossible to have a healthy tree without a healthy root system.
Carefully read application directions to avoid over fertilizing. Too much fertilizer can lead to "fertilizer burn", whereby salts within the product draw vital moisture out of the tree. Likewise, avoid applying lawn and flower fertilizers to your tree, as these plants have unique requirements, and different formulations.
Trees require fertilizing only in the early spring/summer months, not in the fall. Fall fertilization will encourage continued growth at a time when the tree should be preparing for winter dormancy. Fertilizing in fall will cause increased stress during colder months, which can lead to excess winter damage.
The numbers on fertilizer packaging provide a percentage breakdown of nutrients contained in the mix.
The numbers always follow this sequence:
N-P-K
Nitrogen – Phosphorus – Potassium
Nitrogen: Encourages leaf development.
Phosphorus: Promotes root growth.
Potassium: Helps fight off disease, promotes root growth, and supports flower and fruit growth.
For newly planted trees, a fertilizer with a phosphorus content is best, to encourage root growth. It is impossible to have a healthy tree without a healthy root system.
Carefully read application directions to avoid over fertilizing. Too much fertilizer can lead to "fertilizer burn", whereby salts within the product draw vital moisture out of the tree. Likewise, avoid applying lawn and flower fertilizers to your tree, as these plants have unique requirements, and different formulations.
Trees require fertilizing only in the early spring/summer months, not in the fall. Fall fertilization will encourage continued growth at a time when the tree should be preparing for winter dormancy. Fertilizing in fall will cause increased stress during colder months, which can lead to excess winter damage.
Pruning
We strongly recommend that homeowners only prune trees to remove any dead or damaged branches. Pruning causes stress to trees, as wounds render trees more susceptible to insects and pathogens.
It is normal for trees to have a small number of dead branches after each winter. Dead limbs should be removed, so that the tree can focus its energy on sending nutrients to those parts which are living. To confirm whether a branch is dead, scratch it with your fingernail: if the tissue beneath is green, the branch is still living and does not require removal. If the tissue is brown, then that part of the tree is dead, and can be carefully removed.
Always sanitize pruning sheers before use to minimize potential disease spread.
When pruning, take care to cause minimal damage to the tree's surrounding, healthy tissue. If you find that dieback of a branch extends all the way to the trunk, carefully make your cut at the collar. To prune the dead ends of a branch, make your cut close to a leaf node or lateral branch, so that it can continue to grow.
For more information on pruning, visit: https://www.stihlusa.com/webcontent/cmsfilelibrary/stihl_spclrprtsprning.pdf
It is normal for trees to have a small number of dead branches after each winter. Dead limbs should be removed, so that the tree can focus its energy on sending nutrients to those parts which are living. To confirm whether a branch is dead, scratch it with your fingernail: if the tissue beneath is green, the branch is still living and does not require removal. If the tissue is brown, then that part of the tree is dead, and can be carefully removed.
Always sanitize pruning sheers before use to minimize potential disease spread.
When pruning, take care to cause minimal damage to the tree's surrounding, healthy tissue. If you find that dieback of a branch extends all the way to the trunk, carefully make your cut at the collar. To prune the dead ends of a branch, make your cut close to a leaf node or lateral branch, so that it can continue to grow.
For more information on pruning, visit: https://www.stihlusa.com/webcontent/cmsfilelibrary/stihl_spclrprtsprning.pdf
Mulching
Bark mulch provides your tree with nutrients, helps to prevent weed growth, and insulates the ground, allowing soil to remain moist for longer periods. When planting in a grassy area, remove sod and make a circle of mulch (2-foot radius, minimum). This will help to prevent damage to the trunk and/or roots from lawn mowers and other landscaping equipment.
Although mulching is beneficial, avoid creating a "mulch volcano" around the trunk of the tree. Apply mulch in an even layer around the tree. Most importantly, mulch should never be built up around the tree trunk or root flare. Sustained, direct contact can cause bark to rot, thereby exposing the tree to infestation from insects or disease.
Although mulching is beneficial, avoid creating a "mulch volcano" around the trunk of the tree. Apply mulch in an even layer around the tree. Most importantly, mulch should never be built up around the tree trunk or root flare. Sustained, direct contact can cause bark to rot, thereby exposing the tree to infestation from insects or disease.
Staking
A properly planted, healthy tree rarely requires staking. In fact, trees that are staked unnecessarily may develop fewer roots, resulting in a weakened base. Staking should be restricted to situations where extra support or assistance is needed to promote anchoring, such as: top heavy trees (ie those with fewer lower branches and/or a rootball that is small in size relative to the crown); trees newly planted in loose/unstable or wet/waterlogged soils; and trees newly planted in windy sites
For those trees in need of support, be sure to install stakes and straps as low as necessary (no higher than 2/3 the height of the tree). Use wide straps constructed of soft, flexible material that allows for movement along the entire trunk. Suitable examples include strips of cotton fabric, nylon stockings, bicycle inner tubes or specially designed slings available at garden centres. Avoid wire, or anything rigid that might damage the trunk. Tie straps in a figure-8 form. For stakes, wooden stakes or metal rods/pipes are best. Position stakes outside the rootball, if possible. For single- and double-stake configurations, align stakes with prevailing wind direction.
When using three stakes, arrange in a triangle.
Remember that staking is a temporary solution. Never leave a tree staked for longer than a single growing season. This will minimize potential damage to the tree, and allow it to develop a strong, healthy trunk flare and root system. To determine whether your tree is sufficiently anchored following a period of staking, grab the trunk in hand and shake. If the root ball is loose, leave stakes in place for a little while longer. If it is planted firmly with no movement, stakes may be removed.
For those trees in need of support, be sure to install stakes and straps as low as necessary (no higher than 2/3 the height of the tree). Use wide straps constructed of soft, flexible material that allows for movement along the entire trunk. Suitable examples include strips of cotton fabric, nylon stockings, bicycle inner tubes or specially designed slings available at garden centres. Avoid wire, or anything rigid that might damage the trunk. Tie straps in a figure-8 form. For stakes, wooden stakes or metal rods/pipes are best. Position stakes outside the rootball, if possible. For single- and double-stake configurations, align stakes with prevailing wind direction.
When using three stakes, arrange in a triangle.
Remember that staking is a temporary solution. Never leave a tree staked for longer than a single growing season. This will minimize potential damage to the tree, and allow it to develop a strong, healthy trunk flare and root system. To determine whether your tree is sufficiently anchored following a period of staking, grab the trunk in hand and shake. If the root ball is loose, leave stakes in place for a little while longer. If it is planted firmly with no movement, stakes may be removed.
Wildlife Protection
Protect your trees from becoming food or marking/scratching posts for any wildlife that frequents your property. If rabbits are common in your area, create a protective barrier around the trunk of the tree using chicken wire or a similar product. If deer or moose visit your land, create a fenced perimeter or use a wildlife repellent, such as Plantskydd.